Living Cost LaboratoryThe numbers, and the life behind them
City vs City ยท Xi'an ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ณ vs Rome ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น

Two cities that can't dig a subway without finding an empire.

The Silk Road had two ends. Chang'an โ€” today's Xi'an โ€” sat at one; Rome's world sat at the other. Twenty centuries later, both are former capitals of everything, both live partly off people who come to look at ruins, and neither can put a shovel in the ground without an archaeologist signing off. Then you run the numbers, and the twins part ways.

Xi'an
โ‰ˆ $585โ€“777/mo
one person, all in
VS
Rome
โ‰ˆ $1,770โ€“2,620/mo
one person, all in

Every other comparison in this series pairs a Chinese city with an American one, and there's always something slightly forced about it โ€” Dalian and Seattle share a coastline, Chengdu and Austin share a vibe. Xi'an's twin isn't in America. It's the city at the other end of the road.

For a few centuries around the height of the Han and Roman empires, the two largest, richest cities on Earth were connected by one caravan route. Silk left Chang'an; silver left Rome; each capital was a rumor in the other. Both cities have since been demoted by history in almost exactly the same way โ€” the money moved to the coasts and the north, the emperors became tourist material, and the ground beneath both became so dense with the past that modern construction is a form of excavation.

That last part isn't a metaphor. Both cities have spent the last two decades learning what it costs to build a metro through an empire. We'll get to that โ€” it's the best part. Numbers first.

Terracotta warriors standing in golden light in the excavation trenches of Pit 1 in Xi'an Aerial view of the Colosseum and Roman Forum embedded in the modern city, ringed by streets and traffic
Two empires, two addresses. Xi'an keeps its antiquity underground and mostly unexcavated (above); Rome keeps its antiquity in the open air, in the middle of traffic โ€” note the cars circling the Colosseum (below). Photos by Alexander Schimmeck and Spencer Davis on Unsplash.
Side by side

The same life, priced twice

Typical 2026 costs for one person, in US dollars. Xi'an's yuan figures are converted at roughly ยฅ7.2 to $1; Rome's euro figures at roughly โ‚ฌ1 = $1.14.

Monthly costXi'anRomeGap
1-bedroom, city center$311โ‰ˆ$1,3104.2ร—
All-in monthly, one person$585โ€“777โ‰ˆ$1,770โ€“2,620โ‰ˆ3ร—
One transit ride$0.44$1.713.9ร—
Avg. take-home pay$1,089โ‰ˆ$2,1702.0ร—
Xi'an figures: Wise (2026). Rome figures: Numbeo city-center rent (โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ1,149); all-in range from Livingcost.org basics (โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ1,553) up to comfortable-city estimates (โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ2,300); transit is Rome's โ‚ฌ1.50 BIT ticket; net salary estimates for Rome cluster around โ‚ฌ1,800โ€“2,000 โ€” we use โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ1,900.

Rome runs three to four times Xi'an's costs on most lines. In the American pairings, a gap like that was usually an illusion โ€” the salary gap matched the cost gap, and everything canceled. So look at the last row.

The honest part

This time, it doesn't cancel out.

Rome's costs are roughly 3โ€“4ร— Xi'an's. Rome's take-home pay is only 2ร— Xi'an's. In every US comparison in this series, the multiples roughly offset โ€” a barista faced the same rent arithmetic in Chengdu as in Austin. Between the two ends of the Silk Road, they don't offset. Run the one ratio that matters to someone who both earns and spends in the same city:

Xi'an ยท rent รท take-home
29%
$311 rent against $1,089 net pay. The lowest ratio in this series.
Rome ยท rent รท take-home
โ‰ˆ60%
โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ1,149 rent against โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ1,900 net pay. Even at โ‚ฌ2,000, it's 57%.

A renter on a local salary hands their landlord about twice the share of a paycheck in Rome that they would in Xi'an. This is the first pairing in this series where the cheap city is also, by a wide margin, the more affordable one for the people who live there. The ancient capital that's still cheap turns out to be the one that can afford itself โ€” and it isn't the one with the euro.

Now for the reason these two cities belong on the same page at all.

The subway test

Try digging. See what answers.

A metro is the most honest archaeological instrument a city can own: it doesn't care what's down there, it just has to get through it. Point that instrument at Rome and at Xi'an and you get the same result โ€” an empire answers โ€” followed by two very different responses.

Rome ยท Line C

One line, one generation
  • Archaeological investigations began 2006; the line has been in the works for two decades and counting.
  • A planned downtown station at Largo di Torre Argentina was cancelled outright โ€” the ruins were more extensive than expected. The ruins won.
  • The Colosseo station finally opened in December 2025, with museum-style displays of what the digging found.
  • Piazza Venezia station: preliminary digs hit Hadrian's Athenaeum in 2009. Cost: โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ700 million โ€” five to seven times a normal station. Trains will arrive 48 meters down, around 2033.
  • Full line: โ‰ˆโ‚ฌ7 billion, complete around 2035. Roughly thirty years, end to end.

Xi'an ยท the network

Rescue archaeology at industrial speed
  • An archaeological survey precedes every line; the heritage bureau is involved in every metro project, from route planning on.
  • Line 2 took five years โ€” long by Chinese standards โ€” and turned up some 260 tombs and 3,000+ artifacts along the way.
  • Line 8, a single loop line, produced 1,356 ancient tombs during 2020โ€“21 excavations.
  • Line 5 struck Feiqiu โ€” the ruins of a 2,000-year-old capital โ€” and planners weighed re-routing the line around it.
  • Xianyang West station displays Qin- and Han-dynasty bricks in situ; the airport's new terminal opened with an in-terminal archaeology museum. Yes, really.

Note what's identical and what isn't. Identical: the ground. Both cities discovered that the tunnels themselves are easy โ€” you bore them deep below the past โ€” and that the stations are the problem, because stairs and vents must reach the surface, and between the platform and the sky lies everything that ever happened. Identical, too, is the punchline: both cities gave up fighting it and started building the museum into the station.

Rome slowed down for the dead โ€” a generation per station. Xi'an hired the archaeologists by the thousand and kept digging. Both ended up displaying the empire next to the turnstiles.

The difference is tempo, and it's a fair snapshot of the two systems. Italian heritage law requires full excavation and preservation when something significant surfaces, and in the center of Rome something significant always surfaces; the result is the slowest, most expensive, most lovingly documented subway in Europe. Xi'an runs salvage archaeology as a scheduled industrial process โ€” survey first, dig fast, record, build โ€” which is how a city sitting on thirteen dynasties' worth of tombs still managed to open a whole metro network in the time Rome spent on one line. Neither approach is free. One pays in decades; the other pays in the brutal arithmetic of speed.

Castel Sant'Angelo and the statue-lined Ponte Sant'Angelo reflected in the Tiber at dusk
Hadrian appears twice in this story. His Athenaeum, found under Piazza Venezia, stalled a metro station; his mausoleum, above ground, was recycled into a papal fortress โ€” Castel Sant'Angelo. In Rome even the emperors get repurposed. Photo by Mauricio Artieda on Unsplash.
The honest brake

What the 60% doesn't tell you

Before this reads as "Xi'an wins," slow down. That Roman ratio describes a specific person: a renter, on a local wage, entering today's market. Most Romans are not that person.

The number that softens the number

โ‰ˆ 75%

The share of Italians who live in owner-occupied homes โ€” among the highest rates in Western Europe. Italian housing passes through families: bought decades ago, inherited, often mortgage-free. The brutal rent math describes newcomers, the young, and the mobile โ€” which is precisely why so many young Italians leave. The city is affordable to those who inherited it.

And the euro paycheck buys things no ratio captures: EU healthcare, an EU passport's freedom of movement, and a currency that travels. China's urban homeownership rate is also among the world's highest, so the caveat cuts both ways โ€” rent ratios describe cities as experienced by outsiders and the young. That's exactly who this site writes for, which is why we lead with them. But don't mistake the renter's city for the whole city.

Where the analogy breaks

Don't let a good comparison make you stupid

Two ends of one road, two unexcavatable downtowns โ€” the symmetry is real, and it is also not the whole picture.

Four places this comparison fails
  • Scale. Xi'an has about 13 million people; Rome's city proper has under three million. One is China's eighth-largest city absorbing semiconductor fabs; the other is a mid-sized European capital by headcount. These are different kinds of object.
  • The address of the empire. Rome's antiquity is above ground โ€” on postcards, in traffic circles, priced into every hotel room. Xi'an's is underground and 99% unexcavated. Rome monetizes visibility; Xi'an monetizes mystery. Two entirely different tourism products that happen to share a business model: the dead.
  • Direction of travel. Xi'an's low costs are a stage of ascent โ€” a rising inland city whose wages and supply chains are still arriving. Rome's high costs are a stage of maturity โ€” a slow-growth economy whose economic center of gravity long ago moved north to Milan. Same snapshot, opposite trajectories.
  • Systems. Euro vs. yuan, EU labor mobility vs. hukou registration, Italian property law vs. Chinese land leases, and one of them is still its country's political capital. No single narrative arc spans both, and anyone selling you one is selling something.
One more thing the road carried

Wheat, pulled into strings

The old story โ€” that Marco Polo carried noodles home from China and Italy learned pasta from the East โ€” is almost certainly false; Italy had pasta before he ever left. The truth is better than the legend: two wheat civilizations, at the two ends of one road, independently decided that the best thing to do with flour is to pull it into strings and argue about the sauce forever after. Xi'an's biangbiang and youpo noodles are hand-pulled, chili-scalded, built for the dry north; Rome's canon runs through amatriciana, carbonara, cacio e pepe. Neither city treats its noodles as cuisine. Both treat them as identity โ€” which is why, in both places, the surest way to start a fight is to suggest the other neighborhood's version is better.

Chopsticks lifting a tangle of sauce-coated hand-pulled noodles from a bowl A fork lifting a twirl of spaghetti in tomato sauce from a plate
The same argument, four thousand miles apart: chopsticks in Xi'an (above), a fork in Rome (below). Photos by Tommao Wang and Yeh Xintong on Unsplash.
Who each city is really for

Same dead emperors, different bets

Xi'an makes sense ifโ€ฆ

You earn in dollars or euros and want a vast, cheap, history-saturated base where the local economy actually works โ€” rent at 29% of the average local wage, noodles at street prices, and the world's most famous unopened tomb half an hour away.

Rome makes sense ifโ€ฆ

You're buying Europe: the passport zone, the healthcare, the ruins in the open air, the fourth espresso. Just know the local wage math is brutal for renters โ€” plan to arrive with outside income or a very good contract.

Two thousand years ago these cities anchored the two ends of the same road, each convinced it was the center of the world. Both were right, and then both were wrong, and the road itself moved to the sea. What's left is two cities that can't build a train station without meeting their former selves โ€” one of them charging you โ‚ฌ1,149 for the privilege of living upstairs from the empire, the other charging ยฅ2,240. For once in this series, cheap and affordable are the same city.

Next in this series: the small ceramic town of Jingdezhen โ€” real numbers, and the real reasons behind them.